Monday, June 16, 2014

Jaipur

Jaipur: A Poem in Aesthetics


I have often visited this pink city which is a glorious riot of colour,

pomp, and pageantry, a specimen of architecture that is grand in lifestyle and

intricate in design, a paradise of renowned handicrafts.

Carved out of the dessert, Jaipur is a magical city built by Sawai Jai Singh II

who was awarded the title SAWAI (for one who is extraordinary) by the Moghal

Emperor Aurangazeb when he was 11years old. Sawai Jai Singh II built this city

with the help of a gifted Bengali engineer Vidyadhar Chakravarthy.

Jaipur means city of Victory. The city is built in the form of a rectangle divided

into blocks chowkries, with roads and avenues running parallel to the sides.

The lay out of the streets was based on the mathematical grid of seven squares

representing the ancient Hindu map of the universe, with the sacred Mount Meru,

home of Shiva, occupying the Central Square.

Jaipur earlier known as Dhundhar is part of the broadly divided four regions of

Rajasthan. The other three being Marvar (Jodhpur), Mewar (Udaypur), Shekhawati

(Agarwal and Maheswari community comes from this region).

The Pink colour of the city was not according to the plans of Jai Singh but in

1876AD Jaipur dressed itself in pink to welcome Prince Albert, consort of Queen

Victoria. The pink colour was chosen after several experiments to cut down

the intense glare from the reflection of the blazing rays of sun. To this day, the

buildings are uniformly rose pink.

Jaipur is a renowned handicraft center and is famous for producing exquisite gold

jewellery enameled or inlaid with precious /semi-precious, blue pottery, carvings

on wood, stone and ivory, block print and tie and die textiles, leather articles,

handmade paper, miniature paintings etc.

So here is a humble attempt to share my favorite places in the pink city to shop,

to eat, to visit, worship. Jaipur offers much more than what is listed below but

keeping in mind the time factor for a tourist, here are a few of my favorite places.

1. For lovers of history a must see

2. Places of worship

3. Fairs and Festivals

4. Polo-Jaipur’s Heritage

5. Day Visit Bagru, Sanganer, Samode, Salasar Balaji

6. Places to stay

7. A Few recommended eating joints

8. Sweets, Snacks and Jaipur specialty food

9. Jeweler’s

10.Jaipur textiles, Jaipur designers, Boutiques

11.Miscellaneous

1. For lovers of history a must see

Amer Fort complex: Amer Fort complex stands amidst wooded hills

overlooking the Delhi-Jaipur highway, with its forbidding ramparts

reflected in the still waters of the Maota Lake. It was the ancient capital

of Kachhawah rulers. The original palace was built by Raja Man Singh;

Additions were made by Sawai Jai Singh.

Within the palace is the Diwan-e-Aam or the Hall of Public audience, the

Diwan-e-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience and the Sukh Niwas or the

Pleasure Palace where a cool breeze blows across channels of water for the

purpose of air conditioning. There are the private chambers of the queens

with windows having latticed screens so that the ladies could watch the

proceedings of the royal court in privacy. There is the Jai Mandir or The

Temple of Victory, with its famed Sheesh Mahal, the scintillating Hall of

Mirrors.

Amer fort is located in Amer an area of 4sq.km. Amer fort was made by

Meena’s community King Raja Alan Singh Chanda later occupied by

Kachawa Rajput

b. City Palace, Jaipur: You can enter the City Palace complex from either the

Sirehdeori Gate or the Atish Gate. Within its walls are a number of places

– The Hall of Public and Private Audience, the Mubarak Mahal and the

seven-storied Chandra Mahal which house a museum. In the museum are

preserved carpets, robes of the royal princes and an armory of old weapons.

The miniatures are finely executed depicting court scenes, Radha-Krishna

themes, the Ragmala series and battle scenes and processions.

a. Jantar Mantar: This open air observatory is set outside the gateway

of the City Palace Complex. It was built by the astronomer king

Sawai Jai Singh II in 1728 and is one of the five open-air astronomical

observatories built by him. Some of the instruments

measuring local time, the altitudes of stars and constellations, the

sun’s declination, meridian, altitude and determining eclipses.

2. Places of worship

A. Shila Devi Temple:

This temple is dedicated to the goddess Kali, popularly known as Shila Devi,

the goddess of strength. It has an idol of the deity made in black marble

which was brought by Raja Man Singh of Amer in 1604 A.D. from East

Bengal. It was elaborately decorated by Sawai Man Singh II with marble,

silver door and the silver drum. The majestic doors display 9 forms of Durga

and 10 forms of Saraswathi, The goddess of knowledge.

Timings: 05:00-12:00 and 16:00-20:00hrs

B. Meera Krishna Temple Jaipur:

C. Govind Dev Ji Temple:

The City Palace Complex includes the temple of Govind Devji.

This temple of Lord Krishna was built in such a fashion that the king could

see the God from the Chandra Mahal which is exactly opposite to it. It is

surrounded by gardens and palaces.

Timings: of Temples and Ceremonies and Darshan.

Mangala

Dhoop

Shringar

Gwal

Sandhya

Shayan

Winter

5:15-5:30 am

8:15-9:15

10:30-10:45

18:30-19:30

18:30-19:30

20:00-20:15

Govind Ji Temple Contact: 0141-2619413

a) Moti Doongri Ganesh Temple:

Lord Ganesh is worshipped first of all among all deities because Lord

Ganesh is considered as the God of auspiciousness in Hinduism as well as

God of Wisdom, knowledge of wealth. Moti Doongri Ganesh temple in

Jaipur was built in year 1761.

Timings:

Morning Time: 5:00 am-1:30 pm

Evening Time: 4:30 pm-9:30 pm

Timings for Aarti

5:00, 9:30, 10:30, 17:00, 19:15, 21:00

Special Timings for Wednesday Aarti:

5:00, 10:30, 12:00, 16:30, 22:45

3. Fairs and Festivals

a) Pushkar Festival: Held in the month of November in Pushkar. The well-

known and marked with the largest participation of all the festivals of

Rajasthan, Pushkar(152 km away from Jaipur) is an important pilgrimage

as well as the venue of mammoth cattle fair. Bazaars, auctions, music and

sports are the highlights of this event.

b) Elephant Festival: Held in between March-April in Jaipur. A festival

to celebrate Holi, This is a great occasion for the visitor to watch several

elephant sports and also play this festival of colours. A show is organized

with the elephants turning out in their best finery.

c) Camel Festival: The Camel Festival is organized by the department of

Tourism of the Rajasthan Government in January every year in Bikaner. The

festival begins with a colourful procession of bedecked camels against the

red sandstone backdrop of the Junagarh Fort. Folk performances, camel race,

camel dance and tug of war contest are held here.

d) Gangaur Festival: Held in between the month of March-April, 18th day

from Holi. This festival is devoted to goddess Parvati, the consort of

Lord Shiva. It is time for young girls to dress in their finery and pray for

grooms of their choice while the married women pray for the well-being

of their husbands. This 18th day festival is laced with various activities and

culminates in a grand procession marking the arrival of Shiva to escort his

bride home.

e) Jaipur Literature Festivals: Jaipur Literature Festival is the biggest

Literature festival in Asia and is celebrated each year during the month of

January, usually in the Hall of Audience and the gardens of Diggi Palace,

City Center.

4. Polo, Jaipur:

Polo is inseparable is linked with Jaipur because of the passion and patronage

of Late Maharaja Man Singh II who lead the victorious team in 1930’s on the

international circuit favorite sport of the king, Jaipur is very famous of its Polo

Team, people from all over India come to watch this sport it is the big time

attraction for wedding festivities also.

5. Day Visits

Sanganer: Sanganer Village is famous for – Block Printing, Hand-made paper,

Blue pottery. Short drive away from Jaipur it’s on State Highway-12

Bagru: Bagru is a small town, located at a distance of 30 km from Jaipur-Ajmer

Road. This town boasts of unique method of printing using eco-friendly colours.

Anyone interested in textile printing enter into Chippa Mohal besides Sanjari

River, where about a dozen families make themselves busy with dies and blocks.

Samode: Samode is situated only about 42 km Jaipur. Samode offers various

attractions like old Havelies and Fresco’s

Salasar Balaji Hanuman: The land of Lord Hanuman, where all your ‘Sankats

(problems) are solved when you come and seek the blessings of Balaji. It is 165

km away on the Jaipur-Bikaner highway. An ethnic luxury township spread over

an area of 11 acres.

6. Places to stay:

Jai Mahal Palace – +141-2223636

Jacob Road, Civil Lines

Rambagh Palace - +141-2211919

Bhawani Singh Road

Raj Villas – Oberoi Hotel – +141-2680101

Gormer Road off Agra Road

Welcome Group Raj Puttana Palace, +141-5100100

Shereton Palace Road

Royal Orchid Central - +141-4051234

Bani Park

Park Prime - +141-2360202

Near Statue Circle

7. A Few recommended eating joints:

Sharma Ka Dhaba

Vishwakarma Industrial State VKI, Sikar Road.

Abt 20 Min drive from the city

Niros, +141- 2374493

Oldest Jaipur eating place for Non Veg + Veg Food, M.I Road

Thali House, +141-5115522

Authentic Dal Baati, Churma Rajasthani Cuisine

Station Road, Opp. Rawat

Anokhi Café – Organic Café, 0141 – 4007245 / 44

2nd Floor C-Scheem –C11, KK Square, Prithviraj Road

Handi (Good North Indian Food),

Opp. GPO – +141-2364839

Rajpoot

Achrol House, Subhash Chowk

Four Seasons, +141-2374606

Low Range Multi Cuisine, C-Scheme, Subhash Margh

8. Sweets, Snacks and Jaipur specialty food Churan

(Famous for Onion Kachories, Mirchi Bajji, Mishri Mava, Ghevar)

Sodhani Sweets – Old City Ajmer Road, Tonk Road

Rawat – Station Road, +141- 2368288

LMB, Veg Food, Indian Cuisine

Johri Bazar – +141-2565844

Tholia Bulding, MI Road for Sweet and Salted Lassi.

Churan

Jauhari Bazar Opp. LMB,

Modani co.

Near Mand B, Shop No. 92, Shop at the corner of Link Road.

9. Jeweller’s:

• Surana Jeweller of Jaipur ( Precious Kundan Jewellery in exquisite designs)

B-7E, Surana Enclave, Intersection of Ram Singh Road + Prithvi Raj Road

+141- 2372544, +141-2360891

• Amrapali (Gold, Silver + Tribal Jewellery), Panchabat, M.I Road

+0141 – 2377940

• Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Kundan Jewellery),

JLN Marg, +0141 – 5118419

• Tholia’s Kuber (Silver + Gold Jewellery + Other interesting objects)

Tholia Building, M.I Road, +0141 – 2377416

• Ram Bhajo – Prateek – +91 9829057083

• Gem Palace, M.I. Road – +141-2374175

• Thewa Jewellery –: Thewa is the art of etching fusing Ct gold with multi

coloured glass.

• Jaipur International Jewells

• Jusra International Jewels, +141 – 5172954,

Shiv Mahal Margh, Malvia Nagar,

• Vishnu Jewellers (Precious and semi-precious stones and Jewellery)

141-2283030/+91 9414078843

Stones, Beads, G-10, Hathi Babo Marg, Bani Park, Jaipur.

• Vijay Golecha Jewellers, +91 9829014864

• Silver Jewellers

Mukesh, 0141-2574224/ +91-9829056224

10 . Jaipur textiles and Boutiques, Jaipur designers

Laharia, (specialist in mothda, Nagina, Jaldar and Ladsahi)

Sabir Bhai, +91 9314507666

Ramgunj Bajar, Near Badi Chaupal

Ratan Textile (Quilts, covers and House Linen)+141-2222392

Papriwa Cottage, Ajmer Road

Chaubundi (Traditional Dhabu printers with natural dies. Dhabu is batik

made with mud resist)

Praveen Bhai, +91 9314865745, +91 141-2361779

BA, Handloom Haveli, Panchabati, M.I.Road, Jaipur.

Rashid Bhai (Fine Mughal block printed textiles and Jackets, export quality)

141-2373880, Mughal Garden, Shekhawati Enclave, C-35, Lajpat Marg,

Near Rajdhani Hospital, C-Scheme, Jaipur.

Kota Sarees, 0141-2576414/+91-9352388990

Kota Kedra, SM, MI Road,

Bandhej Sarees,+91- 9314476355, +91-9428997171

M.S. Bandhini, Chauda Rasta, Lal ji, Sand ki gali

Ridhi Sidhi textites, 141-2633134/+91-8290222444

Manufactured and Exporters of Handcraft items,

Block and screen print bed covers, Fabrics. 9 Fast Govind Nagar,

Opp Khandaka, Maggiage Hall, Amber Palace Road, Jaipur.

Textorum Textiles(Traditional and Designer Sarees, Salwar Suits, Lehangas

and Dress material), 141-2361190, +141-4013590,

Retailers, whole sales and Exporters, 376, M.I. Road, Jaipur

Kilol, +91-9829092920

(Hand Block printed Textiles),

Rasa +141- 4038584, 5-55, Ashok Marg, C-Scheem

Hot Pink (For collection of top Indian Designers).

Hotel Narayan Nivas on Narayan Singh Circle.

Brigitte Singh (for exclusive Mughal Style fine printing), +141-2530229,

Amer Road.

Gotta Patti Work

1. Gaurav Katta, +91 9983144147

Panchabati, Behind Amrapali, M.I.Road, Jaipur.

2. Meena Tholia - +141-2362664

Tholia Building MI Road

3. Nidhi Tholia, 9828165644,0141-2367334

Tholia House, MI Road

4. Monisha, Thoryamaal, 0141 -3292728/9828014020

11 .Miscellaneous :

Blue Pottery - Neerja International

S-19, Bhawani Sing Road, Jacob Road, Civil Lines

Marble Art Effects

Dhoot Sangemermer, B – 9, Bars Godam. +141-2212714

Painting mahal, 0141-2670178, Abhinav bansal, Ajmer

Thomas-(Metal Bust Casting), +91-91405165

Marble Statues Murthys, Pandey Exports, +141-2318834,

Narain Bhawan, 4th Cross, Khejre Ka Rasta

Hand Made Paper(AL Paper)

Main Market, Sanganer, +141-2731706

Kagzi Hand Made Paper Industries, +141-2770718

G- 179, EPIP, Garment Zone, Sitapur Marg

Mojari Jutis, +141-2377037

Gulab path, Chomu House

R K Bangles

22, Saraog Marsiod, Tel.:+141-2569683

Altaf Bangles, +91 9828220226

12. Handicrafts

Artisans at Work:

2. Khanjanewaton Ka Rasta for Marble Carving

3. Achrol House, Subhash Chowk for Carpets

4. Maniharon Ka Rasta (Tripolia Bazar) for Lac Works

5. Kishan Pol Bazar for Tie + Dye Textiles

6. Ramganj Bazar for Shoes

Recommended reading for better insight of Jaipur

‘I Love Jaipur’ A book by a Fiona Caulfield.
Courtesy:- http://aanjupoddar.blogspot.in/2012/05/jaipur-poem-in-aesthetics.html

Varanasi/ Benaras/ Kashi

Varanasi/ Benaras/ Kashi

I love the energies, the smells and the sound of looms in this ancient city of Kashi Vishwanath. You pray, you take a dip in the holy Ganges, you eat the chaat and the malai and then shop to your heart's content.
A place with many names, with temples in every lane, it is believed that to die in Varanasi is to attain salvation.

Temples
  • Kashi Vishwanath Temple
  • Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple
  • Annapurna Temple
  • New Vishwananth Temple
  • Kalabhairav Temple

Sight seeing

  • Benaras Hindu University
  • Sarnath Museum

Weavers

1. Roliana*
Ph: +919335793616

2. Heritage India, Shaheed Bhai*
Bhelupur
Ph: (0542) 2452032/ 2455816


3. Girija Shankar, Niraj*
Raj Katra Chowk
Ph: +919415221270/ (0542) 2412188

4. Prabha Traders, Mukund and Kaushal
Rani Kuan, Vijaya Shri Market
Ph: (0542) 2401811/ 1937

5. Kedia Kala Kendra, Amitji and Nagarji
Chowk*
(Plain Saree materials and borders)
Ph: (0542) 2400456

6.Ashok Kumar*
Ramnagar
Ph: +919415301405/ (0542) 2668357

7.Vijay Kumar*
Ramnagar
Ph: +919452826425/ (0542) 2668566

8.Harul Fabrics, Basheeruddin
Pili Koti
Ph: (0542) 2328570

9.Kasim Enterprise, Nazeer Ahmed*
Pili Koti
Ph: +919839080100

10.Musa Enterprise
Pili Koti
Ph: (0542) 2330482

11.Imran Jamil
Pili Koti
Ph: (0542) 2440592

12.Ramlal, Bholenath Maurya
Choti Patiya
Ph: (0542) 2318023

13.Akbul Matheen (Fabrics)
Pili Koti
Ph: +919336913131

14.Maqbul Hassan (Jamavar Sarees)
Pili Koti
Ph: +919889003115

15.Shri Niketan (Printed Sarees)

Basfatak

16.Mohanlal Kishenchand (Benaras and printed saree)
Chowk
Ph: (0542) 2410542


17. Kasim, Tasveer Bhai* (Sarees)
Pili Koti
Ph: (0542) 2331364/ 2440212/ 2440726



Silver
1. Trueso, Kanhailal and Saraflal Jeweller, Abhay Saraf*
Gowdalia, next to KCN Cinema
Ph: +915422391011

Wooden toys

1. Contact person: Bihari*
Ph: +919415225024/ (0542) 2393550

2. Contact person: Narendra
Kashmir  Ganj, Khojwa
Ph: (0542) 6529998

 Eateries
  • Chaat
1. Dina Chaat Bandar*
 Thatheri Bazaar
and Luxa
Ph: +919918884333



2. Kashi Chaat Bandar, Girja Ghar Crossing


  • Aloo ka Papad
1. Marwadi Bandar

2. Danukaji

3. Aggarwal Papad

4.Jaganath Papad*
Ph: (0542) 2356835/ 2391465


5. Rastogi Papad
Ph: (0542) 2400653


6. Dhanu Ka Papad Wala
Ph: (0542) 2405971

  • Malai

1. Shri Ram Bandar*
 Rati Yatra and Mint House Nadeshar
Ph: (0542) 2400629

2. Raswanti
Ph: (0542) 2405967

3. Markande Sardar

  • Tandai
 1. Shambhu* in Thatheri Bazaar

2. Basfatak (Baba Thadai)

3. Basant Patak
Ph:+919336007665

  • Pickles
 1. Shri Ram Bandar, Rati Yatra and Mint House Nadeshar
Raswanti
Ph: (0542) 2400629 

2. Thatheri Bazaar

3. Gyanchand Murabewalla* (Lal Mirch Ka pickle, Agastya Phool Pickle and Aamle ke Muraba)
Ph: +919335799922/ (0542) 2420031

  • Kheer Mohan
1. Krishna Mistan Bandar
Ph: (0542) 2401652


  • Benaras Paan
1. Gama, Choti Godhaliya Girija Ghar

2. Keshav, Lanka

3. Rati Yatra, Near Kuber Complex

4. Chutney Paan wala*
Ph:+919839564970


  • Lal Peda
1. Shivpur

2. Raj Bandhu

3. Kamadhenu

4. Sankat Mochan, Saketh Nagar

5. Shri Ram Bandar, Rati Yatra and Mint House Nadeshar (Famous for Lal Peda, Yellow Peda, Tirungi Burfi)
Ph: (0542) 2400629

6. Madhur Jalpan Mithaiwala
Ph: +917838383183

  • Kachori
1. Gyan Vapi

2. Thatheri Bazaar

  • Namish (Only in winters)
1. Fena *, near Chowk (Behind the mosque)

Courtesy: http://aanjupoddar.blogspot.in/2013/02/varanasi-benaras-kashi.html

Where I source some of my special foodstuff from

Where I source some of my special foodstuff from:
Different places have different specialties to offer ….
I am sharing with you some sources which I have collected over the years.
Ø Aloo Papad: Banaras
·        Jaganath Papad - (0542) 2356835/ 2391465
Ck 18/5, Pital Wale Mahadew Ke Bagal Me), Thatheri Bazar, Kabir Chaura, Varanasi - 221001 
 
·        Rastogi Papad - (0542) 2400653
·        Dhanu Ka Papad Waala - (0542) 2405971
·        Marwadi Bandar
·        Agarwal Papad
Ø Alphonso Mango:
·        Mumbai, Arjun Dhoble : Nadheswar  - +91 9323588698 /Gautam – +91  9987605774
Ø Banarasi Malai:
·        Shri Ram Bandar,  Rati Yatra and Mint House Nadeshar  -  (0542) 2400629
·        Raswanti - (0542) 2405967
·        Markande Sardar
Ø Bhel Puri:
·        Mumbai, Neela Mehta - (022) 26310011/ 66934996
Ø Dry Fruits, Almond and Pista roti, Aam Papad:
·        Mumbai, Ramanlal Vittaldas, Mewa wala, (022) 23610289
Ø Gulab Jal (Rose water):
·        Kolkata, Amarnath Mishra Brand.
Ø Hyderabadi Aloo toast:
·        Hyderabad, Deepak +91 9866211987
Ø Jaipur Specialty Food and Churan
(Famous for Onion Kachories, Mirchi Bajji, Mishri Mava, Ghevar)
·        Sodhani Sweets – Old City Ajmer Road, Tonk Road
·        Rawat – Station Road, (141)- 2368288
·        LMB, Veg Food, Indian Cuisine Johri Bazar - (141)-2565844
·        Tholia Bulding, MI Road for Sweet and Salted Lassi.
·        Churan Jauhari Bazar Opp. LMB,  Modani co.
Near Mand B, Shop No. 92, Shop at the corner of Link Road.
Ø Khakhara:
·        Ahmedabad, Indu Ben Khakrawala - +91 9898985560, info@indubenkhakhrawala.in
Ø Mukhawas :
·        Mumbai , Yamini Mehta – (022) 22914355/9930157373/ 9892429208
Ø Papad:
·        Kolkata, Pushpa Tulsiyan - +91 9830016504
·        Mumbai, Sukhani Papad - (022) 22421790
Ø Pickles from Banaras:
·        Shri Ram Bandar, Rati Yatra and Mint House Nadeshar Raswanti, (0542) 2400629. 
·        Gyanchand Murabewalla (Lal Mirch Pickle, Agastya Phool Pickle and Aamle ka Muraba) +91 9335799922/ (0542) 2420031.
Ø Pickles, Spices and Mangaodi:
·        Kolkata, Jyotirmayee Club, (033) 24619309
·        Mumbai, Rajasthani Mahila Mandal, 12 Forges Street, Gwalior tank, Mumbai -36. (022) 23861332
Ø Rose and khas sharbat of Rally Singh – Kolkata.
Ø Sandesh:
·        Kolkata, Nakul Girish –(033) 22410048
Ø Sem ka Beej:
·        Farukhabad, RamSewak Tivari c/o Mahesh Tivari, Nehru Road, Farukhabad. +91 9450202018
Ø Sharbat and Laal puri:
·        Kolkata, Sarala Damani, 71 Jitendra Mohan Avenue, Kolkata 5. +919831091351/ (033) 25541991.
Ø Silver and Gold Foil Varakh:
·        Hyderabad, Munna Lal Dawasaas, +91 9849050543, (040) 66442280
 
Ø South Indian Pickles and Kharampudri:
Ø Hyderabad. Nirmal Swagruha Food, Ameerpet.  (040) 23408690/64518690
Ø  Supari:
·        Kolkata, Neeraj Supariwala  +91 9831430694
Ø Thandai from Banaras:
·        Basant Patak --Ph:+919336007665
·        Shambhu in Thatheri Bazaar
·        Basfatak (Baba Thandai)
                                                     
·        Badi & Punjabi Papad -Amritsar
·        Chiwada  -Sahibganj  - Bihar -Bhagalpur
·        Choti Harrad - Amritsar
·        Desi Bajra -Rajasthan
·        Desi Moth - Rajasthan
·        Hing(Asafoetida) -Amritsar
·        Kairia - Kolkata
·        Lal Mirch(Red Chilli Powder) – Ahmedabad
·        Peanuts – Ahmedabad
·        Petha(Sweet) & Dal Moth(Savory )– Agra
·        Rai(Mustard Seeds)  - Indore
·        Roli(Red powder made out of Turmeric) - Hyderabad & Indore
             Hyderabad : Ghasiram Balkishan Nawandar
             Lad Bazar, Hyderabad.
          Ph; 040-24577212, Mob; 9177414700
·        Small dana rice Bihar -Bhagalpur

Courtesy:- http://aanjupoddar.blogspot.in/2014_05_01_archive.html

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Edge of the veg- Vegetarians and Jains Rule the Roost in some of the most exotic Indian and International Chain restaurants across India



Vegetarian Nasi Goreng made using a tofu scramble at the Asian Street Kitchen (ASK). Photo: Abhijit Bhatlekar/Mint 

When Monkey Bar, the country’s coolest gastropub, launched in Bangalore’s Indiranagar in April, regular patrons of the older edition on Wood Street were rather taken aback. From a menu that unabashedly made love to its meats, including lamb heart, brains and chicken liver, beef and pork, executive chef and partner Manu Chandra had pared down the non-vegetarian content in the newest avatar to just over half. Alongside the Crab Rangoon and Tempura Calamari, a number of the dishes especially crafted for the new outlet were vegetarian: Chilli Cheese And Sour Cream Pierogi, Mushroom Pan Rolls, a Tofu Burger, even a wok-tossed Japanese eggplant and paneer (cottage cheese) take on the MoBar bork, which uses double-cooked pork belly.
“At Indiranagar, we have about a 55/45 division between non-vegetarian and vegetarian dishes,” says Chandra. “The Wood Street outlet, which opened in 2012, was our first foray into the gastropub zone, we were still setting the template. The general feedback was that there weren’t enough vegetarian options on the menu. So we corrected it along the way, and launched the Indiranagar pub with a more balanced menu.”



                                                      Exotic Veggie Pot Rice at the ASK

In the upscale dining space in India, where vegetarians have long complained of a paucity of exciting choices, the “balance” is a significant new phenomenon. It is inspired as much by the wealthy vegan/vegetarian as the conscious consumer, and driven by the canny businessman as much as the intrepid chef. The shift is a sign, perhaps, of a maturing market, where meats and, to a lesser extent, fish are no longer the only indulgences or dishes with which to impress a dining partner. The upshot of it all may well be a more diverse food landscape, with farmers encouraged to experiment with their produce, restaurateurs emboldened to test their own culinary skills and diners tempted to step outside their comfort zones. 
That the veg edge is no passing fad—or even just the mainstay of the ever-popular Sukh Sagars and Rajdhanis—is borne out by the dining segment where it all began. At a time when top-end restaurants still considered Norwegian salmon the ultimate luxury product, quick-service restaurants (QSR) were the first to tap into the vegetarian market. From the all-veg Pizza Huts, which have been around since the 1990s, to the no-meat McDonald’s which set up shop near the Golden Temple in Amritsar earlier this month, fast- food chains are happy to feed the Indian idea of kosher. Further up the food chain, casual- dining restaurants such as Johnny Rockets have been quick to pick up the idea, minus the QSR accompaniments of fat and salt and fillers. 
“When I took up the franchise (of the American chain) in India, there was one vegetarian item on the menu, a soy patty burger,” says Bakshish Dean, who quit the Park Hotels group as director, food production, four years ago and is now CEO, Johnny Rockets India. “For eight months, we conducted food trials and now we have a 50/50 division between the veg and non-veg dishes. Besides the mushroom patty, the mixed-veg patty and the potato patty, we recently came up with a 100g paneer patty with Creole spices and a panko crust. Our international team, which was here recently, had never seen such a vegetarian variety. Now we are in talks to take some of our creations abroad, particularly to the Middle-Eastern market.” 



 Malabar Spinach Gyoza at the Monkey Bar, Bangalore. Photo courtesy: Kunal Chandra 

If you’re thinking, erm, paneer patty, really? you wouldn’t be the only one. As with Chandra’s creations for Monkey Bar, veg dishes in a restaurant can often seem to be essentially non-vegetarian dishes recast with a vegetarian-friendly protein. It is something of an Indian speciality, a tribute to the famed spirit of jugaad, of making do and thereby going where no chef has gone before—including vegetarianizing cuisines that, say, unlike Italian, thrive on meat and fish. 

“Five years ago, I thought it would be just wrong to do a vegetarian pad Thai,” says Mitesh Rangras, partner at SID Hospitality, Mumbai, owner of pan-Asian restaurant Lemon Grass and Japanese restaurant Aoi, and the brain behind the all-vegetarian menu at Asian Street Kitchen (ASK). “Then we met a master chef from Thailand, who told us that though vegetarian food was unheard of in their country, the sheer number of Indian tourists was forcing them to adapt their dishes to Indian dietary preferences.”

With this reality check, Rangras set about creating a vegetarian base for the classic Thai soup, the tom yum. “We thought a mushroom stock would come closest to the meaty base of the traditional soup. But it was too mushroomy—and a lot of vegetarians don’t even like mushrooms. Then we went back to the basics of the French cooking we’d learnt in catering school and made a vegetable broth, reduced it and added it to the mushroom stock. Besides the tom yum, it is also the basis of the Vietnamese pho served at Asian Street Kitchen,” says Rangras. 

Incidentally, the ASK, which opened in March at Girgaum Chowpatty on a stretch known for its “pure-veg” eateries, claims to be the first restaurant in Mumbai to serve vegetarian versions of Chinese, Japanese, Indonesian, Malaysian, Thai and Vietnamese dishes like nasi goreng, ramen and pho, all heavily characterized by egg, seafood and meat in their originals. 

The newest triumph of the veg wedge of the food pie is Burma Burma, a well-received 12-table restaurant in south Mumbai. “The Burmese usually cook their raw meats in broth, something I knew Indians would not take to. Similarly, the mohinga, which could be called their national dish, is topped with a sprinkling of shrimp powder, which I was sure Indians wouldn’t like,” restaurant owner Ankit Gupta explains his rationale to go veg. 




                                           Johnny Rocket’s Panko Paneer Burger


“But at the end of the day, it was a business decision. We are in south Mumbai, which has a huge community of Jains, Marwaris and Gujaratis, who enjoy eating out. Even if some of their younger members go to non-vegetarian restaurants, their parents wouldn’t accompany them. Plus, some of the Marwaris and Gujaratis actually lived in Burma in the middle part of the last century. I wanted them to come here and relive their youth but there’s no way they’d come here if we served meat,” adds Gupta, whose mother spent the first 25 years of her life in what is now Myanmar.
But of course, both Rangras and Gupta operate out of Mumbai, that bastion of the well-off and well-travelled vegetarian. Long before eating out became liberalized urban India’s favourite mode of socializing, their parents were serving the best of stir-fried babycorn and mushroom au gratin at their lavish weddings and private parties. Now, as they demand variety and quality within their inherited food traditions, they are joined by the vegetarians by choice, guided by health or environmental or other concerns, and well able to afford their proclivities. And they can be anywhere.

Or so hopes Yauatcha, the London, UK, based dim-sum house with branches in New Delhi and Bangalore, besides Mumbai, which recently introduced a 50% vegetarian menu across cities and the option of transforming a decent number of these dim-sum, salad, stir-fry, rice and noodle dishes into no-onion, no-garlic options. “Though we really don’t have that many Jain customers, we think of this as a value-added service,” says Yauatcha Bangalore manager Joydeep Das.

While vegetarians will definitely be relieved by the new trends, innovative chefs are as thrilled by the veg-friendly non-vegetarian, who loves a jimikand (yam) purée when it accompanies the roasted salmon, or opts for a Malabar spinach stuffing in the gyoza over the regular ground pork. Alert maître d’s notice regular clients opting for a vegetarian starter, followed by a non-vegetarian main course—or the other way around: a change from a few years ago, when a meal out inevitably meant a meat and fish feast. Pushing that trend is the rediscovery both of desi fruits and veggies such as drumsticks, amaranth, jackfruits, colocasia roots, plantains and lotus stems, and the local availability of new “imports”, such as baby pumpkin, kale, Swiss chard and the like. 

In a country where meat or fish is one of several equal constituents of a lunch or dinner, and frequently shared at a restaurant table—unlike, say, the staple meat-and-two-veg meal of the UK—vegetables are finally creeping up from the sidelines to the centre stage. And there’s not a single piece of fake meat in sight.
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Pak Boong Fai Dang at Thai restaurant 
O:h Cha

Five must-try meat-free dishes
 
 Parmigiana de Melanzane, tomato-aubergine-Parmesan reimagined at Ottimo, ITC Gardenia, Bangalore

 Watermelon Soup with Black Salt and Feta, at Caramelle, Kolkata

Wild Greens Lasagne, featuring ‘bathua’ and ‘cholai’, at Olive Beach, Mumbai and Bangalore

 Ohn Thamin, rice cooked in coconut milk, flavoured with shallots and raisins, at Burma Burma, Mumbai

 Pak Boong Fai Dang, stir-fried morning glory with chilli and garlic, at O:h Cha, Mumbai

Courtesy:- http://www.livemint.com/Leisure/TUAn0risjnzQjgc9ma3qIL/Edge-of-the-veg.html